Hello, I was in contact with Bill and he suggested that my sensor is going bad and it's not an electronic issue. I know that a used sensor is my only option. I found these on Ebay, https://www.ebay.ca/itm/22445714590...1&sd=164858966115&itm=224457145903&pmt=0&noa= These are kai-11000m not the kai-11002m that came with the camera. Is this a suitable replacement? Mike
Take a look at an 300s image, the vertical banding on the right side. It only gets much more visible after stacking.
Mike - where's the issue? eg column numbers / coordinate ranges. I had a fast look and I don't see anything major. I see two vertical lines cause by a hot pixel, starting at: 793,2313 1262,1908 and a horizontal row @ 901 An older sensor is likely going to be worst than this, so I wouldn't do it.
No, Colin. Not the hot pixel. The deep and wide banding on the right, only gets worse when stacking. Here is a stack of six subs that really show it.
Right now I am trying to take some flats. Having all sorts of connection issues. I can get the camera to connect in Maxlm 6.30 but it hangs up in download almost every single time, then throws error #8. I've bypassed my Pegasus box, no change. I've tried to connect to CCDops 5.1.1.0, doesn't even detect the camera. I starting to believe this is the real issue I am facing.
Ok, so I see what you're referring to in the Blue image you produced with PixInsight. Flagged it with green boxes. Hey @Doug when you have a second - can you take a look? Mike - power problems are the #1 cause of issues. Can you power the camera from it's original AC power supply?
Ummm... sounds like a fundamental case of bad power, bad cabling, bad usb hub. I think you mean CCOPs 5.66 and SBIG Driver Checker 4.05 with SBIGUdrv.dll 5.1.1.0 ? Check the camera's firmware is up to date using the SBIG Driver Checker Firmware tab. Don't update it until you have solved your power/communication issue. You might try turning off the Cooler and then see if the problem is resolved. Your Power source might be providing low voltage to the camera when the TEC is going at full blast.
I my Lenovo laptop is new so I downloaded the CCDopos version that is available. When I was downloading everything to the new laptop a week ago I checked the drivers and they were the latest. I was looking at the led on the camera and it was green. I just checked the PS, I am suspicious it's a MW (Meanwell) but the output is 24v 5a! The output cabling does look oem to me. It plugs into a separate cable that goes to the camera.
Things you might check: - Check for border-line low voltage at the camera if you can. Or test the power supply under load. - If the Lenovo has USB 3.0 C ports, try putting a powered USB 2.0 hub like a StarTech 7200 between the PC and camera. Things you've probably checked already: Since this is a new PC, and are having communication issues, thought I'd mention this stuff. You generally know what you're doing, you've probably already done this: - Lenovo System Update Utility - https://support.lenovo.com/ca/en/do...-7-32-bit-64-bit-desktop-notebook-workstation - Run it a couple times and check for BIOS firmware, drivers, etc. - Windows Update - run it a few times, reboot after each install. I recently helped a new PC owner, and it took 6 hours of him downloading updates to the OS and drivers, before we could get to the camera. - Check USB selective suspend settings: https://forum.diffractionlimited.co...connects-turn-off-usb-selective-suspend.7848/
I will go through the update utility and such. I've already made sure the usb selective settings were correct. This laptop has three usba 3.2, this is what I am using. I just checked the PS with my meter, this what I was getting, which doesn't correspond to what the owners manual says it should.
Alright, I realized the intermediate cable probably would realign the 12v signal so I rechecked at the camera end, it doesn't exactly match the owners manual.
Found the problem. Worn out usb2.0 cable. I had been using a 25' repeater cable, two of them actually. I tried them both today with the same problem. I had a new one in the closet so I broke it out and my connection/download problems all disappeared, lol. A lot cheaper than a replacing the chip! I'll order another spare and trash a couple more!
LOL that's a lot easier than changing the sensor. It's actually rather rare for a CCD sensor to fail on its own - it's well buried inside the camera. I've seen a total "pixel short" just once in the last 10 years. Usually it takes "customer abuse" to kill the sensor. That can happen if you fail to recharge the desiccant and leave the chip stewing in water for a long time... the pins will corrode. A more spectacular way to destroy your sensor is by opening your observatory during the day and failing to notice that the sun is slowly moving towards the telescope aperture. Yes, that has actually happened.
Doug, it doesn't look too promising. The new usb cable definitely solved all my connection/download issue but the ugly vertical bands are still there. The stack image of m104 is the new cable going through the Pegasus UPB hub, and M108 stacked image is the new cable plugged directly to the camera, looks better because these are 120s subs as compared to 300s subs for M104, but the basic pattern is there.
There's a smooth "ripple" pattern on the left side, which can be caused by several different electronics issues. If it is consistent and subtracts with a dark frame then it's not an issue. If it changes from exposure to exposure then you have a problem. It's not the sensor; it would be something on the power supply board or analog board.
Doug the supplied M104 and 108 stacks are fully calibrated, so no the pattern doesn't disappear with dark subtraction. When I emailed Bill on this he suggested it was the sensor. Maybe we should include him on this discussion?