SC2 Focus Issue

Discussion in 'Guiding and Adaptive Optics - StarChaser and AO' started by vinifera, Oct 8, 2020.

  1. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    Been incredibly clear and dry in North Carolina last several days. Great planetary imaging. Bad for getting up early for work...

    Image train: LX200GPS 10"/moonlight focuser/SC2/FW8/STF8300M.

    Using Maxim for imaging.

    No issue at all getting sharp focus on the STF8300M. got some great shots of Saturn, Jupiter, Mars, and the Moon.

    For some reason I can not get a crisp focus on the SC2. Shot the moon just off the terminator, tried to focus the SC2, and got really grainy - like barely (and really barely) recognizable craters. About a .01 exposure with an O III. The other filters, even at short exposures, of course, too bright, even at terminator. Autodark on, manual exposure setting.

    Moved to a very star rich portion of the sky. Again, able to sharply focus the STF, but not the SC2. Had barely recognizable stars (grainy blobs at best, and only really appreciated at x200 in Maxium) with up to 30 second exposures, autodark on. Played with the exposure in Maxim (low, med, high, manual), and manually trying to focus the SC2, but never really got centroids.

    30 seconds of course is a long time to try and focus something and wait on the feedback of better or worse.

    Any thoughts or ideas on how to get better focused centroids for tracking?
     
  2. Doug

    Doug Staff Member

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    Check the pick-off mirror - make sure there isn't a protective film on it.
     
  3. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    That helped - a lot! There was a small bit of plastic. Still having issues with trying to get effective stars to guide with to show up on the sensor, which is messing with trying to get tracking established, whether as camera 2 or by trying to use the AO8.

    I have the pickup mirror all the way in, but only get star images along one side of the sensor.

    Despite having the image sharply focused on the STF8300 sensor, the central mirror is seen on the SC2 image, which can only be slightly reduced by adjusting the SC2, but never really goes away, so no good centroid.

    I can start to get stars at 5 second exposures, again with a central dark spot, longer exposures - which make focusing challenging of course - brighten the stars, but still doesn't remove the central spot, so no effective centroids.

    I'm wondering a bit if it's an image train/vignetting thing? the whole train is LX200GPS/Moonlight Focuser/Nosepiece/AO8/SC2/FW8/STF8300M.

    Also wondering about the settings in Maxim DL, particularly the stretched view setting, plus the time of exposure?

    And finally - is the light supposed to go on and stay on on the AO8? It clicks on then immediately off when I plug in power, but then never goes on again - even when I try to calibrate it, where I can hear the motors moving.

    Thoughts? Really appreciate the help here. Been able to figure a lot of other things out, but this seems to stymie me.
     
  4. Doug

    Doug Staff Member

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    I believe the LED turns on briefly to indicate that it's working, and then turns off to prevent stray light getting to the camera.

    What is your f/ratio?

    Can you post a photo of your setup?
     
  5. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    Thanks Doug, good to know. So used to the light on the STF and the SC2 staying on and thought the AO unit would do the same.

    f10
     
  6. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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  7. Doug

    Doug Staff Member

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    Okay looks like everything is hooked together properly.

    I've had a closer look and you may get some vignetting with the pick-off mirror due to the T-thread adapter on the front of the AO-8. Certainly the mirror should be positioned as far in as possible.

    Can you post a FITS frame from the guide camera?
     
  8. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    It’ll be next week - but will do
     
  9. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    Oh and thoughts on how to shorten up from the t thread? Not sure how else to connect to the scope or at least nothing comes to mind.
     
  10. Doug

    Doug Staff Member

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    I think the ideal thing would be an adapter that went directly from the 1.9" square bolt pattern on the front of the AO to a 2" spigot.

    We'll talk about whether it would be a good idea for us to make such an adapter. In the meantime, I expect Precise Parts could make one for you.
     
  11. mike m benjamin

    mike m benjamin Cyanogen Customer

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    If that's a 2.5"CFL moonlight the adapter is easy and the best solution, a 68mm to stl adapter from moonlight, threads right in to the AO-8. This is what I have and do.
     
  12. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    Mike - thanks for the input - it's a 2" on the back of at 10" Meade, so unfortunately loses the extra 0.5" diameter.
     
  13. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    Doug - here are the FITS files. a combo of 5, 15/15 auto dark, 20 second auto dark, plus 5 second from the main camera.

    Have to look pretty hard on these JPEGs to see the star, but the only really visible one is the mid bottom of each image.

    Can get really tight focus on the STF, but as you can see in the FITS - the one and only star the device can see is poorly focused. No matter how much I adjust the exposure time or try to manually focus the SC2, I get the same kind of thing. Really bright star and sort of an image.

    I have double checked to be certain the SC2 is all the way out, and I can see it clearly (plus the reflection of the ccd) SC2 5 sec.jpg down the adapter.
     
  14. Doug

    Doug Staff Member

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    You forgot to upload the FITS files, I think.
     
  15. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    How do I do that? the postings only let me upload jpg/png
     
  16. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    Here is the STF8300M 5 second exposure
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Doug

    Doug Staff Member

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    I'd like to see one from the SC-2.
     
  18. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    in order: 5 second, 15 second, 15 autodark, 20 second.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Doug

    Doug Staff Member

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    The glow on the right side is the sensor's "amp glow", which will go away with a dark frame subtraction.

    The star image does look very out of focus, and partially cut off. Can you bring that into focus?
     
  20. vinifera

    vinifera Cyanogen Customer

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    It does - just included the raw (non dark subtracted images) - you've identified my issue. Despite the main camera being in focus, the manual focus on the SC2 never really reaches focus, and the star images (if they don't have the central dark spot) are only half images. If I do focus it (assuming I can actually see stars in the image), then the main camera is out of focus. I'd be happy with a medium between the 2.

    I can hear the shutter open and close (and see it), it looks like it opens fully.

    So thoughts?
     

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