So after a fair number of years I have both a STL-11000 and STX-16803 cameras that were used at SRO on a remote setup. The system is being updated and I thought I'd checkout the cameras and use these older ones at home. Over the years a good amount of dirt has accumulated on these cameras. I'm looking to see what is the best and safest way to clean them up. Internally at the chip level I expect them to be fine but the exterior body and around the electronics I know they are very dirty. I have an air compressor at home as well as c0mpresssed can air. My 1st step will be to connect both and make sure they connect and function. I'll make sure the coolers work and then remove the desiccants and bake as normal. The external filter wheel for the STX will be thoroughly checked and filters cleaned if needed. Any advice would be appreciated.
Perhaps @Tim can comment. Unofficially, I personally use MG Chemicals Super Duster 134. It's a "zero-residue" non-flammable product for use on equipment that can be POWERED UP. https://mgchemicals.com/category/electronics-maintenance/air-dusters/ Keep the can vertical, and it won't discharge anything nasty; it tends to lower temperature quickly, so can cause condensation if used in a prolonged fashion. It's great for cleaning fans, heatsinks, dust off circuit boards etc. Make sure to observe static dissipative techniques - eg antistatic mat, grounded wrist strap etc.. The old q-tip works wonders too for nooks and crannies, dipped in a bit of high purity (99%) isopropyl alcohol. I would NOT use a compressed air system, eg compressor and air gun. Particles, lack of superfine filters, lubricating oil, and static are the enemy.
Thanks Colin. Seems I'm on hold for a bit as the extension cable for the PS isn't here. Hopefully it's misplaced at John's but should know shortly. I've checked the STL-11000 and other than dirty an one really dirty filter, looks good. Even though there's no sign of freezing I'll bake the desiccant for both cameras. The STL I'm familiar with and as to the STX I've just printed out the manual. I've been operating it at SRO over the years but no in person use. I'll need to remount the FW5-STX but that should be covered in the manual (I hope). The setup was attached to a Pyxis 3 rotator just like mine so that should go easy but I think I'll need to find another nose piece for the STL-11000. That too was mounted to a Pyxis 2" rotator which I don't have or use. That will mount directly to the AP Stowaway.
Just ordered a can from Digi Key. Have to wait on the PS extension cable for the STX-16803 anyway......just in case, is this still available? Just the extension or would I need to make one up if I'm able to find a diagram?
Replacement DC extension cables: https://diffractionlimited.com/product/stx-stxl-extension-cable/ Replacement power supply with a DC extension cable included: https://diffractionlimited.com/product/camera-ac-power-supplies/
Not much i can say here. Colin summed it up quite nicely. Though I would add... -do not use microfiber, or any cloth on the chamber window that is not specifically made for lenses (windows). They can hold microscopic bits of dust that can scratch the chamber window. Stick with air, a cotton swab, or brand new "lens cloth" and a small amount of alcohol. Too much alcohol may leave moisture marks adding to the cleaning time. Treat the chamber window as you would treat your coated filters..as they do have a coating on them.
Thanks Tim. Colin, the older PS has a 4 pin DIN connector on the PS side and the 6 pin on the camera. Will the new cable work on the older camera? If not maybe I can make a cable if I can find the specs.
Strong Warning: If you make your own cable, make sure there are NO OTHER CABLES CONNECTED when you first try to power it up. If you wire the power connector backwards, the camera is protected against that. BUT if the USB cable is connected to your computer, you'll have a dead short of 12V to the USB ground. That will likely destroy the camera's digital board AND your computer's USB port. So plug in the cable on its own, with nothing else connected, and make sure the camera properly powers up. If it does, you're good to go. If it does not, then power down immediately and check your connections!
I'm actually hoping John finds this cable among all the items sent back from SRO. David's old 12-1/2" RC is being replaced with a 24" and the SBIG AC4040BSI. I'm repurposing the old STL-11000 and STX-16803 here in Virginia. But if I read the website correctly the new STX extension cable will not work with the old power supply, correct?
We changed the connector between the power supply and the extension cable many years ago, to improve reliability and make it easier to assemble. We no longer make the old version. As you can see from the illustration the connectors are very different.
Thanks for the help guys. Sam at SRO sent me pictures of the cables he found at SRO and will be sending the cables to me. The outer cable wrap is deteriorated and hopefully the wires themselves are OK. If so maybe I can find a suitable shielding for them and save the old cables. Just need to make sure they ohm out and are flexible.
