CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified UV-IR @ Hutech thru a 152mmA+M Refractor(OfficinaStellare 1200mmFL) using a TeleVue .8XReducer/Flattener for an effect of 950mmFL and a BreakThrough X4-UV 49mm filter with a step-ring to 48mm .* I did as RAWMonochrome Autosave Sequences two each of 27secISO1600 and 27secISO3200 and 27secISO6400 and one 147secISO-Auto , then two each of 67secISO1600 and 67secISO3200 and 67secISO6400 and one 147secISO-Auto_which is probably ISO400 , and then four 247secISO-Auto , and then two 347secISO-Auto . I wasn't using in the "Settings" for 'Files' 'Save Data in Unsigned Format' so with this ChristmasTree I used the 'Add Offset to make positive' radio button before I started the "Batch Process" and used the DARKMasterTRICOLOR calibration . I Sum stacked every four images together and then I Sum stacked the results . x {{{{ With this image as a usual 'light' frame I I made RAWMonochrome 'darks' for DARKMaster frames and I left the 'bias' in them which means I didn't use a BiasMaster to 'calibrate' the 'darks . I did seventeen 'darks' for each exposure time Sequences I did at ISO6400 . I put each DARKMaster into the 'buffer' and I did "Convert Color - Scaling 100% for Red Green and Blue and Auto for Background" , then "Make Pixels Square" , and then "Kernal Filter - Median5x5" ... then "Save As..." with the word COLOR added to it's Header name so I know which one is Color . I put them all in a special Folder from their original Folders and I put them in the "Set Calibration" command . I put this light' frame image of NGC4395 in the 'buffer' as RAWMonochrome and I did a "Convert Color" and then "Make Pixels Square" and then "Kernal Filter - Median5x5" .... and then I did 'Calibrate' using 'Auto Optimize' and as a Medium 'screen-stretch' I watched the image ... it seemed like it sunk in and the edges seemed to do the same which seemed like a lot . Then I checked the FITS Header info and the 'calibration' selected the 315secISO6400-DARKMasterTRICOLOR }}}} *************** [[[[### With this image I used "Settings" for 'Files' and 'Add Offset to make positive' active with it's radio button , and I did use a 'Calibration' DARKMaster as seventeen 315secISO6400-darks Averaged and I used the other ISODARKMasterTRICOLOR selections :: and I checked each 'dark' for 'banding' before using them and they were done with an Autosave Sequence by first doing an 'Auto-Sensor Clean' first and then 'disabling' it and the first Autosave on it's own was done with the exposure time to be used for the 'darks' to let the DSLR draw up a 'Bad pixel Map' in it's processor and the Sequence I then started with 315secISO6400 for ' 1 ' RAWMonochrome 'dark' ; then a 67secISO100Flush-frame and then for example a 315secISO6400 'dark' frame for sixteen each , leaving the original 'bias' in the 'darks without using any 'biasmaster' frames to calibrate the 'darks' .... I figured I would leave the bias in the darks and when I do the 'Calibrate' with the DARKMasters it will be just one process hoping to eliminate putting artifacts into the 'light' frames ..... which seems so far to be working OK . ; and the outer edges seem to have less coloring orb , maybe 'calibration' masters are needed and I have "High ISO NoiseReduction-High-ON" and it might be removing 'bias' and 'noise' ??? . ###]]]] . I then put each DARKMaster frame into the MaximDL Pro V6.16 'buffer' and I did "ConvertColor-Scaling 100% for red green blue and Auto Background" and then "Make Pixels Square" and then "KernalFilter-Median5x5" and then "Save As...." with the word COLOR added to the Header description so I know which Masters are which . Maybe TRICOLOR DarkMasters work ok after using "ConvertColor" and "Make Pixels Square" and "KernalFilter-Median5x5" on the 'light' frame first and then the calibration with the DARKMasterTRICOLOR application .? .x Also a 'dark' Autosave Sequence I used ... the active slots are at the bottom area . x
