FlatMasters used for M42 just two examples

Discussion in 'My Astrophotos' started by ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR, Jan 18, 2020.

  1. ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR

    ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR Cyanogen Customer

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    CanonEOSII 6D'stock-new 2017 model from B+HPhoto' thru a 152mm A+M Refractor(OfficinaStellare-1200mmF/L) thru a TeleVue 2XPowerMate with a 35mmT-Ring setup without using any filter and I covered the Telescope with a new white plastic garbage bag using a bunji strap and pulling the bag so it was smooth . I tried five 'flats' for each ISO I was going to use . I was doing exposures to see the artifacts that are on the 'sensor' glass so the FlatMaster will divide them out of the 'light' frame images . The FlatMaster frame shows a lot more content than a single 'flat' frame which is real hard to believe when you look at it in MaximDL Pro V6.16 .. but it is necessary to use because I tried cleaning the 'sensor' glass a few times and these artifacts are still there which means they might be on the back of the 'sensor' glass and you would have to take the DSLR apart to clean the glass if that's the problem.. or it could be coating stains on the glass . The artifacts art there even when you use the 'Live View' with the camera's cap off and look at a light bulb and magnify the view to ' 10 ' and scroll around the 'Live View' image . I was reading different web pages and one of them said that any ISO FlatMaster can be used on and ISO 'light' frame and a lower ISO FlatMaster will have more content than a high ISO FlatFrame Master which is a short exposure and might show the shutter in the 'flat' frame .. so a low ISO 'flat' frame might take 1 to 2 seconds and the shutter shadows might not be seen as an artifact also .. but I used the 'Mirror Lockup' of four seconds for lest 'sensor' shake . Here is a JPG of the ISO50 FlatMaster and I have a JPG of an ISO6400 FlatMaster comparison .x
     
  2. Colin Haig

    Colin Haig Staff Member

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    You need to take that camera body in to get a professional cleaning.
    The tiny dots are mostly likely on the front of the internal filter in front of the sensor window.
    It is a very bad idea to try to remove the internal filter that sits above the sensor - that is usually sealed in a clean room, and there is almost ZERO change of dust being between the sensor and that filter.

    The tiny worm-like things are likely fibres from whatever you used to clean it, also on he internal filter in front of the sensor.
    The larger worm-like things are further away from the sensor, and since they are in different positions between the two frames, are possibly on the PowerMate.

    Cleaning a DSLR takes a great deal of skill and patience. Professional help is best.
    The only safe way is to have a CO2 system or a high quality cleaning kit such as a Pentax image sensor cleaning kit OICK-1.
    Here's a YouTube video:
     
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  3. ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR

    ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR Cyanogen Customer

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    OK thanx … I did see another strand and I used a 'bubble blower' and then did another 'flat' frame and the strand was gone ,
    but the tiny dots all around are another story .
     

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