Discussion in 'My Astrophotos' started by ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR, Nov 16, 2020.


    ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR Cyanogen Customer

    May 13, 2018
    CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified UV-IR @ Hutech using a Canon 75-300mm Refurbished $100.00 Lens set at 200mmFL with a Lumicon Minus-Violet 2in. filter using a step-ring from 58mm to 48mm . This is a single 76secISO6400 RAWMonochrome image taken in MaximDL Pro V6.16 after 'solving' a previous image to get to this image position . I got focused before this with Canon's EOS Utility 'Remote Shooting' and then 'connected' the Rebel with MaximDL Pro . Then I was going to do an Autosave Sequence with 87secISO's various , but all of a sudden the clouds moved in at that was all for the rest of the night and this is the only image .
    [ Before this in the afternoon I was reading about Astro-Physics 1200GTO Manual v4.12 and v4.19 and I followed the proceedure for 'Auto-Connect NO' and I did everything to set Site1 correctly with the Date and Time and DaylightSavingTime to Winter and power down the Mount and then start again and check the 'Time/LST' which was correct . Usually before this the Mount wouldn't slew correctly to the position of a star , like Vega in the West , instead it slewed to the NorthEast so something was wrong , I fixed it with the proceedure above because it slewed the right way . ] . @@@@ Then when I parked the Mount after the clouds covered the sky , the USB3 Hub that has a power cord from for $32.00 from Walmart went on the blink and wouldn't light it's blue lights when un-plugged from the laptop , it was on the un-stable side to begin with and would blink off and on and needed to be positioned and not touched to keep lit . This time it didn't light up blue anymore and I eventually went inside with it and I tried to get the main plug housing apart but I had to use a large channel-lock wrench and I squeezed the top and it bent inward a little and I managed to get the top cap off the plug housing that had a circuit board and barrels and two wires . One of the red wires was off the plug stem that was loose and could be pulled out and inserted back in and stops when in all the way , but the tiny itsy bitsy bit of solder didn't hold especially if the plug stem got stuck in another plug . The other wire had it's itsy bitsy solder still holding the end of it's plug stem but thats all it does is being attached . I soldered the red wire to the plug stem again with ample solder and I added some to the other red wire also . Then I found a hard rubber plug adapter for two-prong plugs and I put it on the plug housing a little more than halfway and I plugged it into a recepticle and nothing happened . I pulled it out and the forced the small adapter on all the way and I tried it again and the blue lights lit up without any problem and also brighter than before and without any blinking . I put the top housing back on the plug and I used electrical tape and wrapped it good and secure . Next time I use it it should function OK . @@@@ .
    &&&&&&&&& Last week after alot of attempts with the MaximDL Pro V6.16 'Photon Wizard' with two Rebel ISO100 'flat-frames' and one ISO100 'bias-frame' it still won't 'open' the 'flat' with a message included . All kinds of ISO 'flat-frames' have been tried and are FITS 16bit with the same ISO 'bias' . 'Confused' I thought I would look into my "ImagesPlus" program and there is a 'Read Noise and Gain...' selection that 'opens' a page and you put in two 'flats' and two 'bias' frames and press 'Compute' and it does it and shows a Gain for 'R' and 'G' and 'B' ..... I used ISO100 which has the most available electrons . The Gain 'computed' which might be like the 'photons per ADU' were for ISO100 1/2500th of a second or ' .0004secISO100 ' was ' 8.0 ' for each 'R' and 'G' and 'B' for the DSLR 12BIT evaluation . But , I had done some ' .5secISO100 ' and ' 1secISO100 ' and ' 5secISO100 ' and ' 10secISO100 ' on up to ' 60secISO100 ' for the 'flat-frames' with a Canon 75-300mm Lens set at 200mmFL in a Home Depot 5 gallon orange pail with the DSLR in the bottom looking up at the blue sky with a pink-shirt covering the pail with the wrinkles stretched out . At ' .5secISO100 the 'screen-stretch' window in MaximDL Pro showed a verticle bar at the right side , all the other longer exposures showed the same 'screen-stretch' look . The ' .0004secISO100 ' had data across the 'screen-stretch' window like there is more content . When I tried each of the 'flats' in "ImagesPlus" 'Read Noise and Gain....' window .... the ' .5secISO100 ' for 'R' and 'G' and 'B' computed Gain was the same and that number was ' 12,000 or a little more varying for each color channel a little bit ..... and I assume the sensor is being fully saturated and reading the available electrons as 12,300 approximately for all images above ' .5secISO100 ' , the ' .0004ISO100 ' reading would not be enough and I will try this again at ISO100 with exposures to try to read for 'R' and 'G' and 'B' as about ' 4000 ' which would be about 1/3rd of a sensor saturation for a 'flat-frame' and might make a better FLATMaster frame . I think when I find the ISO100 exposure that is about right I will use this exposure for all the ISO's I will use for 'flat-frames' and hope that corrects the pixel saturation variations like a FLATMaster frame should do , I don't know if a vignetting will be correct , though . &&&&&&&& . x
    [ I was looking at DarkMaster frames in the 'Open' folder option of MaximDL Pro V6.16 and there is a small preview window there and both the CanonEOSII 6D and CanonEOSII RebelT7i long exposure DarkMasters have an effect that are different between the two different cameras , but when I 'open' one of them into MaximDL Pro's buffer window the hazing doesn't show . Then I tried a Bin3 then Bin3 to them and the artifact then shows ... so I made a JPG out of them to show . I think that www.clarkvision.com about the CanonEOSII 7D MarkII camera about 'On Sensor Dark Current Suppression' is also in the Canon 6D and Canon RebelT7i when I did the test on them for 'red' and 'green' hues on a dark-frame which showed only a gray even color . These DARKMasters I think are putting an artifact into the 'light-frames' when calibrated and the light-frames most likely don't need any DarkMaster frames to remove what isn't there . A BiasMaster would be needed for the FlatMaster calibration though . ] . x

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