M106

Discussion in 'My Astrophotos' started by ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR, Apr 4, 2021.

  1. ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR

    ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR Cyanogen Customer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2018
    Messages:
    256
    M106 done with an IDAS UV 82mm filter from Hutech which is supposed to make a modified DSLR image like a stock DSLR . 152mm A+M Refractor(OfficinaStellare-1200mmF/L) using an APM Flattener and an IDAS UV 82mm Hutech filter , with a CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified UV-IR from Hutech for RAWMonochrome Autosave images and with the MaximDL Pro V6.16 "Settings" 'Files' tab set with a 'check' for 'Save Data in Unsigned Format' .

    {{ Why I did these RAWMonochrome images is because I was looking through the MaximDL Pro V5 Handbook Manual I have and then I looked at "Settings" and 'Files' . So in the 'open' window of "Settings" and the 'Files' tab there is an option that I don't have 'checked' which is 'Save Data in Unsigned Format' which means if a CCD camera or the Canon DSLR's have 'signed' numbers the data will be saved with the 'signed' numbers and there will be negative numbers and MaximDL Pro cannot read 'negative' numbers which means they probably aren't showing as their part of the 'light' frame image in the 'buffer' when you put one in to work on it . Therefore when 'opening' 'signed' number images you must use the radio button for 'Add offset to make positive' which creates a pedestal to force the 'negative' numbers to become 'positive' and showing for their part in the image . When you 'open' MaximDL Pro , you must 'open' the "Settings" and activate the radio button for 'Add offset to make positive' and press 'Apply' to make it active because when you close the program it resorts back the the radio button for 'Treat data as unsigned' which doesn't try to fix the 'negative' numbers problem and could result in data loss in the image and might be causing line artifacts , ? . So, with an 'open' image in the 'buffer' and using the 'Calibration' command to an image ... some of the 'calibration' Masters might not be 'calibrating' because some of the data might be 'negative' numbers and causing things to an image . I tried a SUPERBiasMaster of 256 frames to an image and there were 'verticle' line streaks which could be seen after applying "Digital Development" and then brightening the image which then showed the 'verticle' lines ... and I always have the 'Save Data in Unsigned Format' 'unchecked' for everything I do . To eliminate this problem I will 'check' the box for 'Save Data in Unsigned Format' for Autosave images and 'bias' and 'darks and 'flats' if needed and then use the radio button for 'Treat data as unsigned' when processing 'light' frames and then there shouldn't be any problem . With existing SuperBiasMasters for all the CanonEOSII RebelT7i , I 'opened' each SuperBiasMaster while the "Settings" 'Files' tab had the radio button for 'Add offset to make positive' active and then I did a "Save As..." with an added description of OFFSET and then I put those SuperBiasMasters into the "Set Calibration" command and I 'calibrated' a few images and they didn't show 'verticle' streaking , which means Masters might be able to be 'saved' from the 'negative' dilema that's probably existing as a mis-calibration affect . Seems like the best option is to switch to using the 'Save Data in Unsigned Format' for any kind of calibration frames and 'light' frames and be done with it ; with these M106 images I tried a SUPERBiasMaster on ISO400 and it immediately streaked in the 'verticle' so I didn't 'calibrate any of the M106 images before stacking . }} .x

    I figured I would use "Convert Color" with Scaling at 100% for 'red' 'green' and 'blue' and then fix the stacked FITS later so there wouldn't be an light shade loss . There was still 'red' in the background and the galaxy arms so I tried to reduce it with "Levels" and "Color Adjust- Background radio button and Cyan " . The core looked monochrome so I used "Color Saturation with pixels restrictions from the lowest in the galaxy arms to 66000 and I dialed the percent up to 160 and then I press OK , there was a little color added so I did it again and some color started to show in the core and I did it again and reduced the percent that was necessary " . I sharpened and smoothed the image as much as I could and I finally had to resort to "ImagesPlus" for "Levels" 'Black' and use a Mask to shield the galaxy and remove the 'red' distortions from the background and image edges .... this is the result .x x
     

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