M51

CanonEOSII RebelT7i 'modified by Hutech' thru a 'TPO80A 2in. filter from OPTCorp' thru a TeleVue 2.5XPowerMate for 3000mmF/L
thru a 152mmA+M Refractor(OfficinaStellare) for four 11minISO6400 'one-shotColor' RAW ADOBE RGB PictureStyle-Faithful 5200K ....
then each image I used the 'in-camera' at Protect Images for the 'Filter Effects' and I used the 'Art Bold effect' that causes a change to
the image and then 'Save' to a JPG as an extra image . Then downloaded to the laptop and in Canon Digital Photo Professional ver.4 ,
I then made them all a 16BIT TIFF and there was fourteen of them from the four originals and then I put them into MaximDL Pro V6.16 and
did a BatchProcess and then Sum stacked them . I put the FITS into "ImagesPlus" and worked on it till I got things smoothed and sharpened
and color increased . This is the result . Like a '~sparks fly~' image which was helped out by the camera's 'Filter Effects' 'Art Bold effect' .X

 

I use the TPO80A 2in. filter because I am seeing what it will do and it costs $18.00 from OPTCorp with free-shipping . I was originally
trying to get the IC2118 WitchHead but I couldn't see anything .. I 'm trying to see Thor's Helmet and it does see it in a few minutes . The
filter doesn't seem to block sky-glow but it might if sky-glow is a yellow tint . FarPoint.com which bought Lumicon and Astrodon says the
80A has a contrast effect and the 82A has less contrast and is brighter and lets in more of the other colors .
I was reading on CloudyNights where someone said 'reflection nebulas' usually show the full visual spectrum and using a #38 dark blue filter
will cause a dark nebula ..but it might take that filter to do it . Antilhue had one I think with a DeepSky Lumicon .
The M51 I did was five 'one-shotColor' images when I re-counted them in the RebelT7i and they were 698.6secISO6400 ..but if I add 2 minutes
to that amount it might get more faint area . The next option might be to put an Orion Polarizing 2in. filter with the most amount of light entering thru
the Polarizing filter .. putting it in front of the 80A filter to keep the off-angle scatter light-shades from entering and allowing more of the straight-thru
'object's ' light only , in this case an 82A light-blue filter might be better . This idea can take one or two hours to get 14minISO6400 images for me in
Northeast Pennsylvania where clear-sky is becoming rare …. but with other methods with 'narrow-band' imaging might take a few years to get enough
images in Ha , OII and others .. . The original M51 was shades of blue and I found the other shades with "ImagesPlus" with the 'HSL Color' command
and 'HSL Micro' color command . But it was one of the best ones I've done and a TeleVue 2XPowerMate into a 2XPowerMate might frame it and
will frame it with the CanonEOS 6D'stock version' camera which I'l try . When the Moon isn't up next week and etc. .
It takes at least 11minISO6400 to use the 'in-camera' 'Filter Effects' for 'Art Bold effect' to try to work and using lesser exposure lenghts makes an
agitated effect and if the Moon is out at the time it makes it worse . It would be good if the exposure is about 14minISO6400 and the 'Art Bold effect'
is used to make a JPG from the RAW image and a thin 'red' line appears in galaxy arms like Ha images are showing … because it would be easy to do . x