152mm A+M Refractor)OfficinaStellare-1200mmF/L( thru a TeleVue 2XPowerMate for an effect of 2400mmFL using a BreakThrough X4-UV 49mm filter with step-rings to 48mm . Using a CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified UV-IR @ Hutech at PictureStyle-Faithful_'lowest settings' 5200K for 'one-shotColor' images at 81 seconds as eight for ISO6400 . I put the CR2. images in MaximDL Pro V6.20 to 'Calibrate' with a "SuperBIASMaster 256-framesAverage" for each ISO that was used . Then "ConvertColor-Scaling R:70% , G:80% , B:90% , Auto:Background" , 'MakePixelsSquare" , "KernalFilter-Median5X5" , "Resize from 3.72micron to 6.5micron size pixels" and then "MakePixelsSquare" and "Bin2" and "MakePixelsSquare" and "PinPointAstrometric-GSC solved" ....and "SaveAs.... IEEEFloat" . . And then I stacked the finished FITS as 'Astrometric' Sum for the resulting finished FITS image . Then I used the "Digital Development^ - FFT-Hard" command and "Curves" and "AdjustSaturation-reducing out dark-pink area" and 'sharpening' and 'smoothing' .^^^^^ {{{ ABOUT Super BIASMaster removing debris around '0' point and then making a '0' point for a Canon DSLR that doesn'r have a '0' point natually except for '+' and '-' numbers . I saw on the Internet a site that uses 'PixInSight' with descriptions about 'calibrating' images so I thought I'l try making something like that with MaximDL Pro V6.20 'averaging' each ISO BIASMaster . Maybe I don't need any sort of DARKMaster because I have the DSLR set for "High ISO NoiseReduction-HIGH" all the time ... so with a TeleVue 2.5XPowerMate there is a glow in the 'center' of images that need a FLATMaster to remove it but the other PowerMates don't seem to have this problem ; the site was [ How to shoot Bias frames with a DSLR DSLR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY] and the examples are with a Nikon DSLR , and you can locate it thru "GOOGLE SEARCH" .}}}. I was looking at M104 the SombreoGalaxy images I had with a Canon50D for two 106secISO1600 images and I Sum stacked them and used the "DigitalDevelopment-FFT Hard" that was done with a TeleVue 2.5XPowerMate and a Minus-Violet filter and when I get a chance I will try to M104 like M101 at 81sec but I will do that and longer exposures up to 2minutes or more using a BreakThroughX4-UV filter .x = In MaximDL Pro V6.20 Manual it says to set things with 'Windows Explorer' but Windows 10 doesn't have that ... it has File Explorer and you 'open' the Folder icon and at the top is File - Home - Share - and View . Press the ' View ' tab and there is ' Options' on the far right and it has an arrow and you tap it and ' Change folder and search options' appears as a sentence and you tap on it and a Page appears ... as 'Folder Options' and press the ' View ' tab and the Page changes and a few selections down you see a Folder icon that says ' Hidden files and folders ' and the default is ' Don't show hidden files,folders, or drives ' with an active radio button .... you then select the next radio button for ' Show hidden files,folders, and drives ' and then press the active ' Aplly ' button and then press OK and you're done . MaximDL Pro V6.20 says this might help with the full content of an image file which might show more file extensions . Also , in MaximDL Pro V6.20 Help Manual in ' Index ' area there is ' 5x5 ' and tap it and then 'Display' and there is a Page on filters . Also , there is ' 32-bit ' and tap it and then 'Display' and then select ' Open ' and there is info in there about files .= . While 'guiding' with an ZWOASI120MC-S webcam at Bin2 for 6-second 'guiding' exposures I tried the ' Dither ' option in the 'Autosave Setup' and I turned 'Dither' ON and 'Via Guider' and I used ' X&Y ' and 'Max.Dev.[pixels] at 2.0' , I was using for 'Delay Between' ' 30 seconds ' but it is not quite enough and should be at least ' 40 seconds ' for the 'guiding' to settle down because it makes a move after each exposure in the 'Autosave Sequence' .... if ' 8 seconds ' or more for guide exposures is needed then it might be necessary to use 'Delay Between' of ' 60 seconds ' to make sure the 'guiding' has settled to minimal correctios . .... also be careful when close to the Meridian when the Telescope is pointed East incase the Telescope tries to ' slew ' to the West because wires might get pulled out of the camera and other things .. so , when the Telescope is near the Meridian it would be logical to turn OFF the ' Dither ' option . The 'Dither' option might be useful with a DSLR at 'high' ISO's to cover over the 'peppered' background areas . x ### ImagesPlus" has a PDF Tutorial about how to remove 'banding' in the background which is a little complicated but might work . ### Also , Diffraction Limited Forums had someone with a camera and 'banding' was in the images doing 10 minute exposures but not the first image but the next images and Diffraction Limited Forums says " It's probably from electrons that get pushed down into the bottom of the sensor during a long exposure and when the sensor is downloaded they might not be taken up and then during the next long exposure the stuck electrons slowly float up and mix in with the rest of the electrons but where they were stuck in the bottom against sensor structure they float up from there and cause the 'banding' impression in the image ." .... what can be done about that I wonder ... maybe an exposure for a minute or more or less will be enough time to 'flush' them out ??? and then continue with the next long exposure . An exposure that would show the 'banding' and then do a long exposure and hope the 'banding' doesn't show . An example might be if : you are doing an 'object' and looking East with the Telescope about 2 hours before the 'object' crosses the Meridian and continue for another hour and you are doing RAWMonochrome Autosaves or 'one-shotColor' images for three hours continually .... and the problem does happen with electrons getting stuck on the bottom of the sensor and thru time they keep floating up into the rest of the substrate and get downloaded with each image with faint 'banding' being present ... as time goes by the Mount will rotate a little from the original starting position till the end of the exposures and there could be electrons stuck in the bottom of the sensor that are bright with star light and from the beginning exposures they might not float up and get downloaded til the last hour and the might appear as faint trails from the star positions of the most recent images but maybe there isn't any trailing from mis-haps in the Mount and 'guiding' but could be late to rise up from the bottom of the sensor and resemble trails off of stars .... ! maybe once in awhile you have to try to 'flush' out the bottom stuck electrons with some short exposures to prevent the stuck electron mishaps ??? .##### Also , MaximDL Pro V6.20 Manual says in the 'Index' tab for 'Nikon' that there are 64-bit ' .dll ' drivers and MaximDL Pro can only read 32-bit ' .dll ' drivers and those must be used ..... I can't find anything on 'Canon' like that but I tried and the RebelT7i still won't expose over ' 30 seconds ' . x
