152mm A+M Refractor)OfficinaStellare-1200mmF/L( thru a TeleVue 2XPowerMate for an effect of 2400mmFL using a BreakThrough X4-UV 49mm filter with step-rings to 48mm . Using a CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified UV-IR @ Hutech at PictureStyle-Faithful_'lowest settings' 5200K for 'one-shotColor' images at 81 seconds as eight for ISO1600 and eight for ISO3200 and eight for ISO6400 and eight for ISO12800 . I put the CR2. images in MaximDL Pro V6.20 to 'Calibrate' with a "SuperBIASMaster 256-framesAverage" for each ISO that was used . Then "ConvertColor-Scaling R:70% , G:80% , B:90% , Auto:Background" , 'MakePixelsSquare" , "KernalFilter-Median5X5" , "Resize from 3.72micron to 6.5micron size pixels" and then "MakePixelsSquare" and "Bin2" and "MakePixelsSquare" and "PinPointAstrometric-GSC solved" ....and "SaveAs.... IEEEFloat" and then I did each image with "ColorBalance-Scaling R:300% , G:300% , B:300% .. and then I pressed the Auto button for Background and pressed OK" , all the images had close to the same color tones this way and I did a "SaveAs.. IEEEFloat" again . I then put each ISO type in their own Folder and stacked them as 'Astrometric' Sum . And then I stacked the finished FITS results as 'Astrometric' Sum for the resulting finished FITS image . Then I used the "Digital Development^ - FFT Hard" command and "Curves" and "AdjustSaturation" and 'sharpening' and 'smoothing' .^^^^^ {{{ ABOUT Super BIASMaster removing debris around '0' point and then making a '0' point for a Canon DSLR that doesn't have a '0' point naturally except for '+' and '-' numbers . I saw on the Internet a site that uses 'PixInSight' with descriptions about 'calibrating' images so I thought I'l try making something like that with MaximDL Pro V6.20 'averaging' each ISO BIASMaster . Maybe I don't need any sort of DARKMaster because I have the DSLR set for "High ISO NoiseReduction-HIGH" all the time ... so with a TeleVue 2.5XPowerMate there is a glow in the 'center' of images that need a FLATMaster to remove it but the other PowerMates don't seem to have this problem ; the site was [ How to shoot Bias frames with a DSLR DSLR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY] and the examples are with a Nikon DSLR , and you can locate it thru "GOOGLE SEARCH" .}}}. I was looking at M104 the SombreoGalaxy images I had with a Canon50D for two 106secISO1600 images and I Sum stacked them and used the "DigitalDevelopment-FFT Hard" that was done with a TeleVue 2.5XPowerMate and a Minus-Violet filter and when I get a chance I will try to M104 like M66 at 81sec but I will do that and longer exposure up to 2minutes or more using a BreakThroughX4-UV filter .x
