With these images I tried them with a "ColorBalance" but then I put the originals and them and stacked them all a Sigma-Clip-Linear and SigmaFactor: 10.0 . 152mm A+M Refractor(OfficinaStellare-1200F/L) using a TeleVue 2XPowerMate with a 35mm T-Ring with step-rings and a DeepSky Lumicon 2in. filter , and , a CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified UV-IR @ Hutech . This image as MaximDL Pro V6.16 RAWMonochrome Autosaves images is two 187secISO3200-6400 and two 247secISO3200-6400 and two each of 347secISO3200-6400 with the DSLR's 'in-camera' 'Long Exposure Noise ReductionON' just before daylight this morning to see if the edge 'blur' is removed .... and I can't see any edge 'blur' ... so it must be 'dark-current' that was removed . This seems to be the only complete way to remove it . Even Canon Digital Photo Professional doesn't seem to remove this 'blur' artifact , so , it must be the DSLR's Processor knows the numerical statistic to remove ... but other programs have a hard time trying to do it . It might be the numerical data to remove has the DSLR's 'internal temperature' reading as part of the numerical data and will remove it ... but other programs might not be able to read those values and DARKMaster frames are attempting to do the 'blur' extract like I'm trying to do . ? . I'l try again for more of the Crescent tonight if it's clear and move the 'object' a little to the left to get the back end into the picture . With this image and using "ConvertColor-Scaling at 100% for Red , Green , and Blue and 'Auto' for Background" the color is intense Red ... so I used the "ColorBalance : Red-70 and Green-145 and Blue-130 and 'Auto' for Background" which if you set the 'screen-stretch' so you see the area good enough you can dial in the values of the Red , Green , and Blue Scaling till you get the color you want will looking at it .xx
