NGC7000 at 250mmFL with Zoom Canon Lens

Discussion in 'My Astrophotos' started by ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR, Sep 28, 2019.


    ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR Cyanogen Customer

    May 13, 2018
    RebelT7i 'modified' Baader 7nmHa 307secISO6400 and Baader SII 427secISO6400 and LumiconUHC 307secISO6400 thru Canon 75-300mm Refubished $85.00 Lens @ 250mmFL .... the image should look about like this on the DSLR's LCD screen which has some contrast difference instead of too much color saturation with a longer exposure where the contrast difference might be reduced with this short focal-lenght . As CR2.s I put them into MaximDL Pro V6.20 and did a 'Calibrate-Bias and Dark' and then "ConvertColor" then "KernalFilter-Median5x5" and then "Resize- 3.75 to 6.5micronPixels" then Bin2 and "Save As.. IEEEFloat" and 'Average' stacked four images of each filter color . Then for the 'stacked' Baader 7nm HydrogenAlpha I used the "ColorAdjust for Background with Slider tofull 25% and pressed the GREEN box and pressed OK" and then "Convert to MONO" and then "ConvertColor" and then "ColorAdjust for GREEN" and then "Convert to MONO" and then I used the 'screen-stretch' to show the 'mono' image without using the 'green-carot' brightness too much to leave some room for brightening after stacking then I made the images a 12-BIT image with the "Stretch" command and I left the image in the 'buffer' window..,. and then with the Baader Sulfur-II I only did the "Convert to MONO" and I used the 'screen-stretch' to show the image as normal as possible without over-contrasting it ... and with the Lumicon-UHC I used the "ColorAdjust for BLUE and press OK" and then "Convert to MONO" and I used the 'screen-stretch' to show the image as good a s possible witout over-doing it so all there images will be a 12-BIT image .... ; Then, after tapping on the Baader 7nmHa I 'opened' the "Color Stack" and for the 1st image as 7nmHa I selected 'GREEN' for it and for the 2nd image as S-II I used the 'DARKRED' and for the 3rd image as UHC I used the BLUE color option and then you press the 'Align' button and a different page appears and a created image and you make the image magnified larger and use the 'Manual 2-star' option and for 'Options ... check the Bicubic Resample' and then 'left-click' for the 1st Star on an obvious star in the image and then next image appears and do the same for that and the next image ... and then to 2nd Star option appears and 'left-click' on a different star in the image and the same for the next two images and when it's done you press OK and then the original command page appears and then press OK and the 'finished' stacked 'False Color' image appears and then use the 'screen-stretch' Max-Val and then you do what you want after that with the 'screen-stretch' . You can use the "Realign Planes" if needed and then "Levels" to reduce the 'Red-Gamma' a little bit .x

    + Like in catalogs for Celestron or Orion they show an eyepiece and a simulated image of the Veil Nebula and you can't see anything because
    everything is an even saturation-contrast … but then put on an OIII filter and there is a big contrast difference and you can see the Veil Nebula even though
    it's monochrome looking …. so, the same might be happening with DSLR imaging which I tried with these exposures by trying to get a contrast-difference
    in the images and 5minISO6400 was used for Ha and UHC and H-Beta and 7minISO6400 for SII because it's dimmer but if the exposure was doubled
    for these exposures they might have very little contrast differences and look like a solid color ??? …… with Red , Green , and Blue filters I might only
    need 2min images for the contrast difference .. but I didn't get to them ….. I just got NGC7000 at 250mmFL and then I went to IC1805 and I got
    five 5minISO6400 images with the H-Beta and I then started to smell smoke and it was the SG-4 and it has smoke coming out of it .. I hope
    it re-sets and will work .. but I hooked the old ZWOASI120MC-S with it's ASCOM driver and it's SDK driver and it needed the Guider Relays to do it
    thru MaximDL Pro and with the Astro-Physics 1200GTO Mount . When it's clear sky again I'l start on IC1805 and then the California Nebula .
    Next, just earlier and Friday nite at dark I tried the ZWO as the Guide camera again and I ended up removing all files from Add and Remove Programs and deleted the ZWO Driver files and then I sent from a thumb drive , the ZWOASI120MC-S Driver and I 'installed' it and then from the thumb drive I sent to Documents also the ZWOASI120MC-S ASCOM Driver and I 'installed' that and then in MaximDL Pro I selected ASCOM for Camera2 in the "Camera Control" command window for 'Camera Setup' and then tapped on the 'Advanced' button and the 'ASCOM Chooser' window appears and from the 'droplist
    I selected 'ASI Camera 1' and the pressed 'Properties' and a ZWO page appears and there's a 'droplist' in the middle and you select 'Low Read Noise' and then press OK . and OK for each page till you are back at the 'Setup' page and you then press 'Connect' and you should be connected . Then for 'Guide' tab you press it and from the 'droplist' have selected 'Auto-dark' and then set the 'Exposure' to 7 seconds' and press 'Start' for the exposure … and you will have to cover the Guidescope for the 'Auto-dark' because the isn't a 'shutter' on the camera . I now tried 'Guide via: Telescope' in the 'Settings' page and the
    ZWOASI120MC-S will 'Calibrate' and 'guide' this way without it's 'guider relays' cable … but the ZWO is a USB3 camera so it must be in a USB3 Port and other things like the Mount are USB2 Ports . + x
    Here are images and the MONO ones can be put into MaximDL's "Color Stack" to make a 'False Color' image . A BatchProcess file is here also. x

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