Different procedures for each JPG with explanation------- these were done quick for a quick result . These images show different RAWMonochrome DARKMaster effects , but it might be better proven in the DSLR's 'Long Exposure Noise Reduction ON. RebelT7i modified UV-IR @ Hutech with a crop-factor of 1.6 , using a Canon 75-300mm refurbished Lens @ 135mmFL with a Baader7nmHa 2in. filter and using MaximDL Pro V6.16 for RAWMonochrome Autosaves for three images and Sum stacked . This is to show the size of the nebula at 135mmFL and just a little cropping on three edges due to overlapped images . % with this image which should have had a better 'focus' I used 307secISO6400 for one image and one for 376secISO6400 and one 427secISO6400 images % * I had the RebelT7i's 'Peripheral Illumination-OFF' and 'ChromaticAberation-OFF' and also 'Distortion-OFF' in the camera Menu , and also 'Auto Sensor Clean-OFF' in case it does a clean during an image for some reason and puts 'banding' in the image due to an electronic event ; and also , I used the RebelT7i's "Q" button for a 'menu' and for ' f/ratio ' I use ' f/7.1 ' instead of ' f/5.6 ' hoping for a little more sharpness in the smaller background stars and thin detail . * . [[[[### With this image I used "Settings" for 'Files' and 'Add Offset to make positive' active with it's radio button , and I did use a 'Calibration' DARKMaster as seventeen 427secISO6400-darks Averaged and I checked each 'dark' for 'banding' before using them and they were done with an Autosave Sequence by first doing an 'Auto-Sensor Clean' first and then 'disabling' it and the first Autosave on it's own was done with the exposure time to be used for the 'darks' to let the DSLR draw up a 'Bad pixel Map' in it's processor and ; then a 67secISO100Flush-frame and then for example a 427secISO6400 'dark' frame for sixteen each , leaving the original 'bias' in the 'darks without using any 'biasmaster' frames to calibrate the 'darks' .... I figured I would leave the bias in the darks and when I do the 'Calibrate' with the DARKMasters it will be just one process hoping to eliminate putting artifacts into the 'light' frames ..... which seems so far to be working OK . ; and the outer edges seem to have less coloring orb , maybe 'calibration' masters are needed and I have "High ISO NoiseReduction-High-ON" and it might be removing 'bias' and 'noise' ??? . ###]]]] . ###### I did 'darks' to test with 'Auto Optimize' 'Calibration in MaximDLPro v6.16 and I have seventeen 427secISO6400 'darks' which I used and I also did the same amount with 257secISO6400 and 157secISO6400 and 200secISO6400 that I will Average for each time amount and put all four DARKMasters in the "Set Calibration" command and try them on an ISO6400 'light' frame and see which one is used most commonly which could mean there is sufficient data in the DARKMaster for an 'Auto-Optimize' calibration. It might be that with the CanonEOSII RebelT7i I'm using that if I did 15minute 'darks' for four ISO6400 darks and Averaged them and they didn't get selected in the 'Auto-Optimize' calibration it might be that the content is nil or very little because if a majority of the pixels 'over-saturate' there won't be any 'values' in them and the will probably be 'black' or 'white' ... unknown..?? , and the exposure time that is most commonly used might have the sufficient data to calculate the 'dark-current' removal . Also , I tried in-doors two days ago ... the 75-300mm ZoomLens @ 300mmFL and I 'focused' on a plywood board on the wall without a filter and I did 67secISO6400 and 87secISO6400 and 107secISO6400 and 127secISO6400 without a light on in the room except for a small amount of light as 'one-shotColor' images looking at the DSLR's LCD screen and then with each exposure time I also dod an image with 'Long Exposure Noise Reduction ON' and some darkness on the right side did decrease , which gave me the idea to try the DARKMaster idea I am using . ! ; it might work . ;;;;; Another , idea , would be to put into MaximDL Pro 's 'buffer' , a 'dark' frame and use the "Remove Bad Pixels" command and 'auto-generate' a map to see if a 'dark' frame with a long exposure time has more 'bad' pixels than a 3minute 'dark' frame , which if a 15minute or longer 'dark' frame is used and the "Remove Bad Pixels" command detects a large amount of 'bad' pixels ...{ I tried a 67secISO100Flush-frame-dark in the command and only about five spots were detected as 'bad' ; and , I tried a 427secISO6400-darkframe and it Auto-Generated with Threshold 4096 ... a large amount of 'bad' pixels ..which means more pixels might be 'over-saturating' at 427sec than at 67sec .} ; the pixels might be 'over-saturating' and losing the 'values' and becoming nil and not really 'calibrating' with enough data to remove the 'dark-current' 'blurs' . ##### .x *** This is done with a 257secISO DARKMaster on the 307secISO6400 image and the 427secISO6400 DARKMaster on the 376secISO6400 and 427secISO6400 images that 'Auto-Optimize' selected from those two options , otherwise ISO157 DARKMaster or 200secISO6400 DARKMasters were being used but only the lowest exposure time was being selected out of the four different DARKMasters , without any other 'calibration' to the 'darks' which still have their 'bias' statistics in them , but I did use "Remove Gradient" on the end result and on each image I did for this experiment with and without a DARKMaster . But , a real test would be to use the RebelT7i's 'in-camera' 'Long Exposure Noise Reduction ON' to see if edge brightness is really being removed that a DARKMaster can't remove easily .**** .x
