Canon Refurbished 75-300mm Lens for about $100.00 at about 250mm position but "PinPoint Astrometry" 'solves' at 236mmFL in MaximDLPro V6.16 using a Baader 7nm HydrogenAlpha 2in. filter . I was doing 'piggyback' on and Astro-Physics 1200GTO Mount and 'guiding' and I started with 307secISO6400 for two RAWMonochrome Autosaves and then two 367secISO6400 and two 427secISO6400 and then two 367secISO6400 . 7min images starts to get more blemishing at the image edges and 6min seems OK . I tried a 'Calibrate' with a FlatMaster I made before I did the images but it takes the 'red' away so I just used a BiasMaster . I then did "Convert Color" and then "KernalFilter-3X3Median" and other commands I do but what was needed was "Color Adjust-Background radio button and the slider set at ' 6%' and then tap once on the 'Red' color and press OK ... this will help remove the 'blue' tint in the surrounding sky . I had eight images and I Average stacked them . I did use 20secISO100Flush-frames and the all had 'banding' so I didn't use them . I used the "Digital Develoment-GaussianBlur: 1.0 " and a good amount of other commands and I cropped off the surrounding blemished edges . I have never been able to image the 'Spahgetti Nebula' before but now I think I know what to do using a CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified UV-IR from Hutech . I was reading Clarkvision.com tutorials and tutorials ' 7a , 7b , and 7c ' tell alot about dark-current and some about the ' gain ' which sounds to be minimal like ' .12 ' , and sounds like it's based on a 1x1 micron area of a pixel . I tried a 1/100th secISO1600 cap on camera for ' dark ' and then a 10minISO1600 cap on camera ' dark ' and the same thru MaximDL Pro and then I did a "Convert Color" to the 10minISO1600 exposure and then the 'screen-stretch' to brighten without over-doing it and there doesn't seem to be and 'red' and 'green' hazes so it might have 'On Sensor Dark Current Suppression' like Clarkvision.com says to do ... but the Canon 50D I had did have the hazes . Clarkvision says there is no need for 'dark-frames' with the new cameras if the test doesn't show the tinted hazing hues . When I did Simeis147 'Spahgetti Nebula' I should have covered the Guider and the DSLR and Lens better with the small heating pads I use ... but I will the next time . I now have the Lens set at 200mmFL and a 'focus' a did at the end of Saturday night and I will try the Simeis147 again which might allow some more space between the 'object' and the image edges , otherwise maybe 180mmFL will do it with the 1.6 crop-factor DSLR . I tried the VeilSNRb and the diameter of the Network and the Veil Nebula in the same image is smaller than Simeis147 but more evident using the Baader 7nm Ha filter which I used the EOS Utility 'Remote Shooting' and 'Live View' with the Lens switch at 'Auto' so I could move the 'focusing-ring' with the 'double arrows' and do at least 40secISO6400 exposures and look at the enlarge JPG image in the laptop screen to check after using the 'double-arrows' for the star sizes if they are getting smaller and into 'focus' and then when it is I put electrical tape on the 'focusing' ring and then put the Lens switch to 'Manual' and dis-connect from the EOS Utility and then 'Connect' to maximDL again to do the RAWMonochrome Autosaves ....Each 'object' seems to need a new 'focus' position or the stars can get small white dash lines in them . Guiding is necessary during 'focusing' , also . If you use a "Batch Process" with the "Color Adjust" for the Hydrogen Alpha images you must tap on the 'Red' rectangle with the slider at 6% and then press OK like in the "Batch Process" I made . x
