I have had this problem all along with my STT 8300M since that start as an early adopter. The power connector is always a bit flakey. I have to say that in messing with electronics over a long time this is the most unreliable power connector I have ever seen. The last few nights it has stopped collecting images in the middle of the night. Eventually I went out to find the unit unpowered but to power back up after various jiggling maneuvers. The two fixes I have tried is to spread out the internal slip pin connector and the put shrink wrap tape on the connector cable. Am I the only person with this problem? I know a couple others have commiserated with me in the past in other venues. This unit has been in the shop and they say it is fine... I guess they do not move it around on a mount. I do not think getting a new power unit is the solution, but I guess you have to try that. Suggestions? This is a real pain for me right now.
Take the cable off and look into the camera. It has a split center contact, which is supposed to provide for a better connection - but if it gets squished together it does the opposite. If it is squished, take a small knife blade and gently pry the two halves apart slightly - not so much that you can't slide the connector on, but enough that it makes a more solid contact.
Doug, two nights and no problems after spreading the pin.... please tell Tim. Fingers crossed. Have also worked on cable management to absolutely minimize change of pulling it.
I've looked into these barrel style power connectors, and the only ones I can find that have the threaded retention feature also have the split pin feature. The manufacturer touts the feature as providing a more reliable connection, but it seems they didn't take into account the possibility that someone might tug on the cable sideways. Not sure what the alternative is, short of going to a completely different type of connector - which would cause compatibility issues.
Looks like I have been good since June 24th... a month... I really cranked the pin wide and tied down the cables 3 times so everything is rigid at the camera. I put all the cables in a separate sleeve as additional protection. Then I tied the sleeve down. Fingers crossed.
Hi Doug, I agree the side pull can squeeze the split pins together, and the nut is designed to prevent pull out, not pull sideways. I also appreciate the need for production and user compatibility over time. I do have a suggestion... Change to the right angle connector cable with same specs. Then the user can more easily strain relief the cable to the camera body or other nearby fixed point. Yes, I can bend around your standard cable and strain relief it, but when it gets cold it just does not want to bend. I am not sure the 2.0 or 2.1mm ID is important, but this link is to 2.0mm cable (need .474" long one) but it has 7/16 locking collar and is not shielded: http://www.switchcraft.com/Drawings/CARA_____07984_CD.PDF For 2.1mm ID, there is a better fit: http://www.tensility.com/pdffiles/10-00115.pdf. I think all correct, and with shielded cable. What do you think of this one? I am going to buy some of the 2.1mm ID connector cables, and splice them to the adapter cable, right where your connector failed when it got caught and ripped it loose. Roger
I'm loving Anderson Power Poles. Put them on everything. It's the "unofficial standard" for all amateur radio emergency service equipment - everything can be interconnected reliably, quickly, and easily. Plus the contacts are self-cleaning, and high current capable. http://www.andersonpower.com/_global-assets/downloads/pdf/ds-pp1545.pdf Plus, there are companies like West Mountain Radio and Powerwerx that have all kinds of handy distribution panels etc. https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution They're bigger than the miserable coax power jack, but super reliable. And you can get retention clips to ensure they stay connected if subjected to more force.
I have yet to even take an astro image with my new STT-8300, but this thread brings several things to my mind. One of the things I immediately noticed when attaching my STT to my scope is how short the brick-to-camera power cord is. My cable management thus far has the brick hanging out in space to be dragged about by the scope. Seems like a lot of weight there. What do you all do with yours? I thought about somehow attaching the power brick to the scope perhaps. I wish the cord was longer so I could leave the actual power convert attached to the side of the mount like I did with my STF. Obviously, you don't want this dead weight pulling on the camera power connector. I made sure I zip tied the cable to the handles on the back of the camera so no strain is placed on the connection itself. FWIW.... CG
Chris, You have a couple of options to extend the cable using a Switchcraft S760K plug, and the mate is Switchcraft 722A Or you can buy an extension cable on our site. https://www.sbig.com/products/accessories/12vdc-extension-cable/ These power companies are making the cables shorter to obtain better energy ratings If you are good with electronics you could make your own. Cheers Tim
Make sure to use heaver gauge wire so you do not lose amps to the camera. Doug and the techs could give you a max length but I would not extend it more than 6 more feet.
