Is there a way to attach T-thread accessories to the self guiding filter wheel? My reducer flattener only attaches with T-thread. Or would that limit the fov too much for the pick off mirror to see out? What is the thread type that's on the wheel. It's really big. It's definitely over 2".
An F/6 110mm. I'm trying to install a televue trf-2008. It has T-thread on one side and 2" nose on the other
Tolga, See page 48, https://www.sbig.com/site/assets/files/1402/stt_manual_080112b.pdf and https://www.sbig.com/site/assets/files/1414/stt_filterwheel_manual_080812.pdf
Hi Tim The threads (where the 2" nose piece goes) on the self guiding filter wheel is different than the threads that's on the original cover. It's about 53mm. I think it's the STL thread but I am not sure. On Page 7 of the FW manual it talks about an optional piece Options Adapter plates: STL (2.156"), SCT (2.00"), T-thread (T-thread is not recommended for self-guiding filter wheel). What is the part number for this T-thread adapter?
It is the STL thread. I was able to get an STL nose piece from SBIG when I bought my camera -- but that is nearly 2-years ago. You can as Maxim if they still carry it, or try ScopeStuff.com.
And I found this -- there are many other links -- I just 'googled' 2.156" nosepiece... http://store.qsimaging.com/2_Nosepiece_for_2_156_Adapter_p/adl-np2.htm
Thank Glenn. I actually have a 2" nose piece for it. I'm trying to put a trf -2008 in between the camera and the scope. This trf is 2" one side T-thread on the other. I realize I would loose some light to the pick off mirror, but I don't use the built in guide camera anyways. I still couldn't figure out how to calibrate it with my cgem. I use ccdsoft. The manual says to leave one star in the fov. How do you do that. People have problems finding guide stars. I have problems getting rid of them.
Ok now I understand, you can get these for $49, OPT has them in stock. http://www.optcorp.com/telescope-ac...-156-to-2-tapered-nosepiece-for-qsi-sbig.html "The threads (where the 2" nose piece goes) on the self guiding filter wheel is different than the threads that's on the original cover. It's about 53mm. I think it's the STL thread but I am not sure. On Page 7 of the FW manual it talks about an optional piece"
i have used exactly this configuration (FW8G-STT + TRF-2008). i can go take a picture of it if you think it's helpful. rob
Tim: I think that Tolga, and I, are looking for an adapter that will screw into the front of the guiding filter wheel on an STT-8300 and connect that filter wheel to a field flattener that ends with a male t-thread. In other words, not a simple nose piece, something that will actually rigidly connect a male t-thread to a female STL, QSI, 2.156 inch or whatever the heck that thing is called on the front of the guiding filter wheel (which is different than the hole in the front of the bare camera without the guiding filter wheel). There is advice against using a t-thread fitting on the guiding filter wheel because it cuts off some light to the guiding pick-off but in this document: http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/attachments/5121665-OAG-8300 STL vs 2'' vs T-threads adapter plate.pdf it is suggested that a t-thread connector can work adequately on the STT, although not optimally... For example, is something like the t-thread "adapter plate" mentioned in the linked document actually available somewhere or do I have to use duct tape? For example, on my old ST-2000XM, the filter wheel cover has a female t-thread and you can just screw a flattener like a TRF-2008 (as Tolga wants to use) straight into the housing. Please forgive my lack of precise terminology but I do not, as of yet, have the STT in hand but am trying to get the pieces together. All the best, -Ken
I already have this part and I already called Jim from Scopestuff, he has never heard of the STL thread
Yeah, we may have to go the custom route on this. In my case, I could also use an adapter that connects the STL/2.156-24 "female" thread on the filter wheel cover to a 48mm "male" thread such as found on a 2" filter (or the front of the TRF-2008 for that matter...). As a newbie to the STT camera design, I guess I'm curious how people are achieving a solid hook up between this relatively heavy camera and the myriad of flattener/reducer designs available on the market. Does everyone use Precise Parts?