WitchHead Nebula IC2118 62sec CR2.s

Discussion in 'My Astrophotos' started by ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR, Mar 25, 2020.

  1. ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR

    ROBERT T SCHAEFER JR Cyanogen Customer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2018
    Messages:
    194
    This is the WitchHead Nebula IC2118 and the last one and it was Feb 21 2020 for 62sec CR2.s but I fixed the DARKMasters
    and I 'calibrated' each image …. I did a lot of different commands to the final Sum stacked FITS … and this is the result .

    152mm A+M Refractor(OfficinaStellare-1200mmF/L) using a TeleVue .8XReducer/Flattener for an effect of 950mmFL ...using a BreakThrough X4-UV 49mm filter with 48-49mm stepup ring , using a CanonEOSII RebelT7i modified for UV-IR @ Hutech . An Astro-Physics 1200GTO Mount was used at 1xSiderealGuideRate and 6sec 'guiding' exposures at Bin2 with a ZWOASI120MC-S(ASCOM Driver) because the stars were small . I just did 'one-shotColor' images were taken for 62 seconds each ... four ISO6400 , four ISO800 , two ISO1600 , and nineteen ISO3200 for a total of twenty-nine images with a 'Delay between of 30 seconds ' thru the DSLR . ____________________ I did a "BatchProcess" command using 'Calibrate' , "ConvertColor-Scaling 70-Red 80-Green 90-Blue and Auto for Background" , "Make Pixels Square" . "KernalFilter-Median5x5" , "KernalFilter-Low-Pass" , "Resize- 3.72microns to 6.5microns" , "Make Pixels Square" , 'Bin2' and "SaveAs.. - IEEEFloat" with the 'Save result in - New' option . Before I did these images on Sunday nite Febuary 21st 2020 , during the daytime I started with ISO25600 for 'flat' frames using a PinkShirt over the dew-shield for a pinkish color .. because the Internet said red-green-blue pixels can see this color easier so each color gets some content in it's pixels for a 'flat' frame .... I looked at the 'screen-stretch' Histogram and the data wasn't clipped on the right side for brightness using ' .01 seconds ' at ISO25600 ... so I did four 'flats . This worked for ISO12800 , and ISO6400 . But , ISO3200 , ISO1600 , ISO800 , and ISO200 needed ' .05 seconds ' to get enough data to the right in the 'screen-stretch' Histogram area . After that I did the 'dark' frames for each ISO for four frames each and then the 'bias' frames the same way . But when I checked each ISO 'flat' , 'dark' , and 'bias' for the Standard Deviation with the 'Infomation' window set to 'Area' ... the 'bias' and 'dark' frames were the same 'StdDev' and the 'flat' frames were much higher in 'StdDev' amounts . An example is if the 'StdDev' is ' 10 ' for the 'bias' you would use in the "Set Calibration" command for 'Advanced' where the 'Advance Calibration' settings are and the 'Pedestal' setting is loacated and you could enter at least ' 30 ' for three times the 'StdDev' and make sure all the 'check-boxes' are 'checked' and press OK to close the window . I did a 'bias' with four frames for an ISO I was working on and that was OK for the BIASMaster using Average . But when I did the 'dark' frames to make a DarkMaster with the same 'Pedestal' setting as the 'bias' frames ... I looked at the DARKMaster in the MaximDL Pro 'buffer' window and the 'screen-stretch' Histogram showed the data being clipped in the left side for the darkness area so this is probably wrong , so I re-did the 'dark' frames with a 'Pedestal' setting of ' 100 ' and then the data in the DarkMaster frame wasn't being clipped and the BIASMaster was being used . Then I did the four 'flat' frames using the BIASMaster and DARKMaster frames and I set the 'Pedestal' for over three times the highest 'StdDev' in any of the 'flat' frames and that worked OK . Some higher ISO's have alot higher 'StdDev' for the 'bias' frames and 'dark' frames where you will need to use values in the hundreds with the 'dark' frames needing about twice the amount as the 'bias' frames need . ** When I check to see if the DARKMaster frame is OK I use 250 magnification Reading Glasses from DollarTree for $1.00 and the data of the DARKMaster should be 'centered' in the 'screen-stretch' window an it'l look like a mound ... but if there isn't enough 'Pedestal' amount used then the data will be clipped in the left side or small spikes will be against the left side edge of the 'screen-stretch' window and that might not be good , so... a 'centered' data mound should Calibrate the 'flat' frames OK and the 'light' frames the correct way ..... I noticed this when I tried a faint nebula and the DARKMaster was clipped in the left side and the nebula seemed to sink into the darkness which might be that the lighter side of a 'light' frame is being 'calibrated' but the darker side isn't which might be making darkness more visible .... but a DARKMaster with the data 'centered' should be doing the correct subtraction .*** { After I got them all done I used the 'Move' command to move the BIASMaster of an ISO Folder to the ISO200 Folder and the DARKMaster of an ISO Folder to the ISO800 Folder and the FLATMaster of each ISO Folder to the ISO1600 Folder and I used in the "Set Calibration" command for 'Source Folder' and loacated the ISO200 Folder and then I used the 'Auto-Generate(Keep Old)' option and I pressed it to enter the BIASMasters in to the 'Calibration Groups' section and down the list toward the end is the ISO200 'bias-dark-flat' frames that you tap on one and press the 'Remove Group' button so they aren't in with the BIASMasters ... then for 'Source Folder' again I selected the ISO800 Folder and I pressed the 'Auto-Generate(Keep Old) button and all the BIASMasters remain and the DARKMasters are entered in also and down near the bottom are the ISO800 'bias-dark-flat' frames and you use the 'Remove Group' button to remove them , .... then I used the 'Source Folder' to locate the ISO1600 Folder and then the 'Auto-Generate(Keep Old) button and the FLATMasters are entered into the bottom of the list and you use the 'Remove Group' button on the ISO1600 'bias-dark-flat' frames that aren't needed so that all the Masters frames are in the 'Calibration Groups' area and I tapped on a FLATMaster and the option for 'Flat Norm.' is active and I used the 'Bayer Planes' option and then press 'OK' to close the Set Calibration window and then ..... 'open' the "Configurations..." window and press the 'Save current configuration as' .Save' button and the "Set Calibration" data will be saved . I tried putting all the Masters into one Folder I made but they won't 'Auto-Generate' so the above mentioned is working instead . } . When I stacked the 'batchprocessed' images with each ISO using 'Auto-star matching' and 'Sum' ... I used the "DoubleSize" command and then the "Make PIxels Square" command and then I used the "ColorBalance" command with Scaling 300% for Red Green Blue and then pressed the Auto Background button and then the OK button to close the command . I then used the "Half Size" command which works like a Bin2 and then I did "Make Pixels Square" and then the "Save As.." IEEEFloat.. . I did the same things separately to the ISO800 , ISO1600 , ISO3200 , ISO6400 , ISO12800 , and the ISO25600 Foldered images till they were all done , too : [[[[ But .. Originally I used the "ConvertColor-Scaling 250%-Red , 150%-Green , 110%-Blue , and Auto-'check' for Background" ... but the ISO3200 and higher ISOs were real 'red' so then after stacking those different ISO Folders I then used the 'ColorBalance' that was done for the ISO's Folder .]]]]] . I then 'opened' the "Stack" command and I 'opened' each ISO Folder , one after the other till I had all the ISO FITS stacked images ready to be 'Astrometric' Sum stacked ... and then I pressed the 'Go' button to 'Combine them . I did a "Save As..." IEEEFloat with info added to the Header . .x //// When I did the Autosave images to the "Destination Folder' all the images were 'saved' in there with their 'ISO suffix' so I could identify them later and 'Copy' them to the 'ISO Folder' for their 'object' name ... that way if I made a mistake processing them in their 'ISO Folders' I still had the 'original RAW ' images in the 'Destination Folder' if they are needed . \\\\ . I did the IC2118 with BIASMaster and DARKMaster and FLATMasters which seemed to work better than without 'Calibration' . x


    $$$ I also included the 300s Lum. I downloaded from here and as an 11BIT FITS , I did a "ConvertColor" and then I used the "ColorBalance - Scaling 300% for Red-Green-Blue and I pressed the Auto - Background button and then OK and then I made it Monochrome and a JPG … here it is .$$$
     

Share This Page