152mm A+M Refractor(OfficinaStellare-1200mmFL) using an APM-Flattener and a CanonEOSII RebelT7i 'modified UV-IR @ Hutech' and also a BreakThrough X4-UV 49mm filter with step-rings to attach to a 35mmT-Ring and then to the APM-Flattener . I located the IC2118 with MaximDL Pro V6.20 with the RebelT7i connected to the Camera Control and I did 30secISO6400 for an image and I "PinPointAstrometry" 'solved' with the GSC and the 'center' star would be GSC4762:125 8.7mag. with BV:1.86 which is a yellowish star but this will 'center' the WitchHead Nebula . I used the EOS Utility-RemoteShooting and the little 'Clock' icon for 'Interval Timer' ability for two images at a time with the longest exposure of 80 seconds and the shortest exposure of 20 seconds an various exposures between these two points ... because I could just see the nebula slightly... like looking thru a Telescope and you can just see the contrast difference between the background and the nebulosity... so I acquired as many images as I could and the Moon was out a little in the West and the Telescope was looking East . The images were saved to a Dated Folder and I put them into MaximDL Pro V6.20 and I did a BatchProcess on them as separate Folders containing images that have the same ISO and then I Sum stacked each Folder ISO and then the saved FITS stacked image of each ISO I then Sum stacked the four different FITS ISOed images for one complete FITS IEEEFloat image . I notices then at 'screen-stretch' Mav-Val that there is a content in it that said about 2.54e+005 which shows a high end type of value above the idea of 16BIT ... but I wonder if the high number might mean ' e/ADU ' ... like 2.54e/ADU which might be a number you can use when you the "Deconvolve" command .??. . ; continuing now about IC2118 ... it was variations of 'red-brown' tint with a contrast different in the Preview window of the EOS Utility-RemoteShooting command which I used because the MaximDL Pro V6.20 doesn't allow images taken over 30 seconds so the Autosave command can't be used at any-old exposure time . My Canon 6D'stock' camera will do the Autosaves but it's Anti-Alaising filter is watermark stained till I get it cleaned , so it could see the IC2118 nebula in exposures like the RebelT7i modified DSLR which sees a little more 'red' . With the "Levels" command I lowered the 'Red' Gamma and increased the 'Blue' Gamma to show the way it is now . x {{{{ With this version I used a BiasMaster and FlatdarkMaster and FlatMaster of ' 0.05sec ' _ using a Pink shirt covering the Telescope during the daytime because on the Internet I found a site that says Pink will get the 'red' 'green' 'blue' values beeter for a one-shotColor' camera than a White shirt or a Blue sky .. for each ISO used ;;;;;; for each ISO on the IC2118 I used , which were 81secISO1600 for four CR2.s and ISO3200 for two 81sec and two 6isec and two 71sec and two 25sec and two 30sec images and for ISO6400 I used two 49sec and four 35sec and two 25sec images and for ISO12800 I used two 30sec and two 20sec and two 25sec images for a total of 40 CR2.s . After I Sum stacked these FlatMastered images I tried some "Curves-Luminance" to brighten the nebula and then I wanted to try the "ColorBalance" command and I put Scaling to 100% and pressed the Auto button for the Background and then I changed the Scaling to 300% for each 'Red' 'Green' and 'Blue' color and toggled one of the a little foe activation and nebula brightened and showed more color to the stars .,.. but the image after smoothing shows to be scarce in the lower pixels values of the image but it might resemble the real colors of the area . When I do the WitchHead again I'l use more 81sec images and more of them for ISO1600 and ISO3200 and some at 100sec . x }}}} .x
