Looking at the shutter, it seems to be "lost" in that it's in the wrong position when it should be closed (covering the chip) or when taking an exposure. The chip is always partially visible in either case, and the shutter moves at the start of an exposure, and then back to it's starting position at the end of the exposure. At all times, some part of the chip is exposed, but never fully. The camera has been doing this right out of the box. Currently, v 13 firmware is installed. I noticed that v 14 had been released on Feb15 (before my camera shipped), and one of the improvements is "improved shutter initialization upon connect." This looked like it might be the cure, so I followed the download instructions and installation instructions to the letter. The DL Config form does not show that the firmware was installed, and v13 is still listed. Another peculiarity is that DL Config is showing the wrong s/n. The s/n on the camera plate ends in ...1201, and the config form show ...2501. How can that be? I know the form is active because I can change fan speed through it. So, I'm floundering here with a new camera that doesn't work, and apparently won't accept an update. I've tried the update procedure about 10 times. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Okay we found one camera in-house that had the same problem. One of our assemblers was just trained on building these models, and built a couple of units with a minor but easily resolved problem. The shutter was installed incorrectly and it is rubbing. Not sure why this wasn't caught during testing; it must have worked normally at first and then began binding. If you want to send it back we can fix this for you, but it's also something fairly simple to do yourself, as follows: Remove the camera's front lid using a 3/32" Allen (hex) key. Please avoid touching the electronics. Using a 5/64" Allen (hex) key, loosen the set screw that holds the shutter to the motor shaft. Power up the camera and let the shutter initialize. Center the shutter over the window, and leave a small gap under the shutter so it does not rub on the chamber lid. (That's what our assembler did incorrectly.) Tighten the set screw, and double-check the shutter alignment. Power down the camera. Reinstall the front lid. Power up and verify correct shutter operation. Our apologies for the problem. The assembler has been re-trained, and we have also clarified the work instructions to ensure that this does not happen again.
Thanks for your quick response. There may be another factor at play here. I did not mention that after a few early exposures, the shutter sound became a very loud "snap," almost a "bang." This didn't sound like anything I've heard before in a CCD camera. I removed the camera from the focuser and noticed that something was detached inside, and rolling around when I tilted the camera. I opened the back plate, and immediately saw that one of the two silver-colored, Philips screw that hold the shutter to the parts beneath it, was missing, and the other was barely holding on. I located the screw and re-attached it. I also tightened the other one. Now, the shutter was securely in place. On the next exposure, the snapping sound was gone, but the shutter was apparently displaced from its proper position. I think that perhaps it has moved on the motor shaft. Your instructions above may fix this problem because they should allow the shutter assembly to get set back to the proper location on the shaft. Btw, the shutter does not appear to be rubbing on the chamber lid in this case. I'll tackle this tomorrow when the wind dies down.
The procedure to reset the shutter position is not working. I assume that the shutter should be tightened when it's in the chip-covering position where the notch in the shutter is seated in the stop post (so, swinging to the left side of its travel range). The alternative position would be where the "tail" of the shutter it contacting it's stop post. As it is now, no matter how many times I've reset the set screw, the stutter ends an exposure with the chip visible through the shutter window. That seems just the opposite of how it should be.
You should update the firmware to v14 before attempting to align the shutter. If you are willing, I can remote into your computer to assist. Do you have TeamViewer? If you would like me to login, PM me with the login credentials.